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Solid consistency proves a winning formula for warm bistro

I hadn’t been to Isa in far too long, but the comfortable bistro called my name recently. Looking to return for an update, we skipped past Bubba’s and Back Bay Grill, entering from the cold to be seated rather quickly. There was a small crowd, though we were there early. The bar had a bit of a bustle going on and we took a look at the drink list to see how we could take part.

The waitress informed us of the happy hour specials which were going on for another ten minutes. I don’t often choose wine, but the $5 Italian red – Sangiovese Blend, Scarpetta “Frico Rosso” – sounded promising. Mrs. Portlandeater went with the Rose, Gobelsberg “Cistercien” from Austria. Then we focused on the proper pairing.

My wine was light and fruity with a softness rarely found in a red wine – a really outstanding value at 5 bucks. I wasn’t sure that seafood was the perfect fit for it, but I figured the Seared White Fish (haddock) – cauliflower, NorthSpore mushrooms, sherry – looked tasty and with both an outstanding wine and fine dinner, it would surely work well enough. I also added a side of Brussels Sprouts and Squash – goat cheese, spicy pepitas, balsamic. She started with a Classic Caesar – spicy croutons, white anchovies (hold the anchovies) – and went for the Eggplant Lasagna – housemade pasta, ricotta, tarragon.

We nibbled on some housemade foccacia and oil and sipped wine until her Caesar came. It was just what you would expect, wonderfully fresh and potent with a fair portion of parmesan on top – nothing out of the ordinary but a fine showing. We sipped our wines while she ate the salad and then waited for our main courses as the restaurant started to pick up somewhat.

Our food took a bit longer than usual to come out, so I didn’t have to worry how the wine paired as all I had left was an empty glass. A nice, thick piece of haddock sat atop some flat cauliflower and mushrooms on my plate. The veggie side had colorful cubes of squash, the sprouts, and drops of cheese and pepitas throughout. Her lasagna was adorned a pile of ricotta on top.

With the first bite of haddock, I new I had made the right choice. The fish was perfectly cooked with a light brown layer on the outside and a flakey inside. The sherry sauce was light and smooth which was a stellar compliment to the haddock. The mushrooms also added plenty of flavor since they were thoroughly saturated with sauce. The cauliflower was almost a full side in itself, feeling a bit cauliflower steak, but not quite as substantial.

When I finally took a bite of the squash and sprouts, they won me over immediately. Sure, they were sweet and benefited from the balsamic reduction, but I’ve never had a dish that was so transformed by goat cheese. Not normally among my favorites, the cheese took the other ingredients and blended them well, creating somewhat of a sweet, creamy whip you might imagine as a light dessert. No, it wasn’t as sweet as dessert, but it brought about those feelings. And the nutty pepitas didn’t hurt.

As we finished our main courses, we considered one last chapter. Even though Tres Leches Cake – a favorite of my wife’s – was on the menu, we eventually decided to pass. Alas, we were too full to consume any more. Our total came to around $75 after tax and tip. We made our way out into the winter weather again, ready to move on with our night.

Isa has a number of qualities that make it special. They’re incredibly consistent with the food and drink, the menu has plenty on it for all tastes, and the warm, casual atmosphere is brilliantly comfortable. You can be sure when you go, you’ll find a good meal, but most of the time it will be much better than that, often even great. Head to Isa if you haven’t been and definitely consider making it one of your regular stops, because it’s really that good.

79 Portland St.
207-808-8533
info@isaportlandme.com

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Scarborough needs options and this new one delivers

Opened in July, Dunstan Tap and Table sits alongside Route 1, nestled between not much of anything. Scarborough isn’t exactly known for their vast food and beverage options, so it was a welcome addition to the area. As I’m sure many patrons of the new pub have done, Mrs. Portlandeater and I went to catch a movie at Cinemagic and then stopped by DT&T down the street for dinner, planning to meet a friend there.

Designed by Maine’s premier interior designer Tyler Karu, the notes of obvious thoughtful decor were present immediately. The curved bar and pendant lights which followed it, hanging ceiling decor, and panels loosely separating the bar and dining areas all stood out. As I soaked it in, we were told that we would need to wait just a minute while they cleaned off a high top in the bar section for us if that was okay. It was.

There was a reasonable selection of beer, wine, and liquor, with a separate menu for drafts. I wasn’t planning on ordering a drink, but one of the signature cocktails looked to be right up my alley. It was The Margaretta – house infused El Jimidor Blanco Jalapeno Tequila, pineapple juice, lime juice, lemon juice, simple syrup, jalapeno garnish, rocks. I supposed it was the perfect “almost Marguarita”, adding some of my favorite drink ingredients to one of the most popular drinks in existence. She ordered a Citizen Cider Unified Press.

Our friend arrived as the drinks did and she ordered a duplicate of mine. My drink (sans salted rim) was spicy as intended, but had many shades of taste. With just the right amount of sour citrus, flavorful heat, and a modicum of sweetness, it not only hit the spot, but performed well against some of the best drinks I’ve had recently. The only question I had was what to do with that bright green jalapeno slice sitting on the rim.

Moving on to food, I spied the categories on the menu including Starters, Soups & Salads, Burgers, Handhelds, and Fork & Knife. I wasn’t predisposed to ordering any one item, but the waitress suggested one of the burgers, a chicken sandwich, and pasta and meatballs as some that people were loving, while insisting that nothing was bad. She also noted that the restaurant makes the vast majority of their ingredients right there, including hot sauce, dressings, and the like.

We finally decided and started with Pickled Deviled Eggs – farm eggs, beets, smoked paprika. I went for the recommended Bacon Mac Burger – bacon and ground beef blend, American cheese, 1000 island, lettuce, pickles, onions – the restaurant’s take on a Big Mac. My wife ordered the Fish and Chips – beer battered haddock, fries, tartar sauce, fines herbs – and our friend, the Chicken Tacos – shredded chicken, 3 flour tortillas, chipotle mayo, heirloom tomato pico de gallo, pickled onions, cotija, cilantro.

The eggs came out pretty quickly. They were purple-ish from the beets with some yolk underneath and decorative greenery on top. I grabbed one, eating an entire half egg in one bite. It was mostly traditional, though the yolk wasn’t quite as potent as I was used to. The mustard and pickle flavors were slightly muted, but it was still a solid app and a worthwhile starter that got me excited for the rest of the meal.

My burger came with chips and was stacked tall with a skewer to keep it mostly upright. It looked much more appealing than the sham it was trying to imitate. Served on a board with chips, it was ready to be smooshed by my hands and shoveled into my mouth. I did just that. There was more than enough meat, bread, and cheese. My only concern was that I felt the 1000 island to be a little light, but this was a serious burger nonetheless.

Her fish and chips came with three sticks of haddock. The tacos also came by three and with tater chips . Unfortunately, the size of my meal left me unable to sample those, but there weren’t any complaints. I force fed myself the last few bites. When I was done, I was covered in burger residue and made my way to the restroom. The design in there was oddly nice and, of note, the sink water drained through the characters “DT&T” as opposed to a bunch holes (taking pictures in bathrooms is weird, so I can’t show you that).

All in all, Dunstan Tap and Table was a winner, though I never did eat that jalapeno garnish. Our meal came to about $75 prior to tip which included a second cider. I liked the food and drink and the design and atmosphere were great. The menu included all the standards with a few extras that probably wouldn’t be found at most pubs. The service was very attentive and friendly. It all worked well together. Next time I’ll be sure to try that house-made hot sauce. If you’re in Scarborough for a spell, check it out.

6 Stewart Dr, Scarborough
207-219-8024
info@dunstantapandtable.com

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Harvest on the Harbor’s Hair of the Dog event made for a bloody good morning

I was lucky to receive complimentary tickets to Harvest on the Harbor’s Saturday morning event entitled “Hair of the Dog”. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but the promise of Bloody Mary’s and Roasted Pork Breakfast Tacos sounded enticing enough. When we entered the tents at 100 West Commmercial St., there was alot going on. We were handed two tokens which could be put in boxes to indicate our favorite bloody. At the end of the event, the one with the most tokens was the winner.

The sounds of New Orleans style jazz filled the air in the near corner of the tent. In the middle of the room were long tables of food. The far end along the back side was lined with beverages, mostly bloodys. Upon closer inspection, the food tables were dedicated to tacos. The line started with Pig Kahuna roasted pig and cilantro eggs (jackfruit could be substituted for pork) inside two soft taco shells. From there, the self-serve additions seemed endless. There were cheeses, salsas, jalapeno peppers, scallions, lime, hot sauces, baked beans, fruit salad, and cole slaw.

Once I loaded up a taco with just about every possible item, I walked over to see what was available for drinking. There were half a dozen vodka/tomato options, Shipyard was serving some TeaBrew, and there were some water and Eli’s available. Bloody Mary’s were served by The Porthole, Sea Dog, Miss Portland, Coppersmith Tavern, Ass Over Teakettle, and Flatbread.

I started with a drink from Coppersmith Tavern, followed by one from Sea Dog, and then a smokehouse version from Ass Over Teakettle who offered three different versions with their own mixes. The Coppersmith one was a spicy with the best garnish of meatballs and cheese wrapped in cherry pepper. The Sea Dog Mary was quite run-of-the-mill, though i didn’t dislike it. The Ass Over Teakettle was smokey as intended. All certainly had their merits, but the Coppersmith Tavern garnish set it apart.

Three drinks was enough for a Saturday morning and we had to move on to other doings before the winner was announced. We left happy and full. Hair of the Dog was an excellent event. If you enjoy Bloody Mary’s and roasted pork, be sure to go next year. Between the food, drink, music, and crowd, it was quite a way to get the day started. Hair of the Dog was well run and lots of fun. I can’t wait to check out other events next year.

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Harvest on the Harbor preview

Harvest on the Harbor will soon bring together people from near and far in its 11th year of celebrating Maine’s food and drink culture. Through a series of events, HOTH entertains and educates, allowing participants to buy tickets and attend those which interest them the most. The festival of Maine-based consumable concoctions runs from October 16-21.

Locations, times, and prices for the events vary, but if you like what we have to offer in this great state, at least one is sure to interest you. From coffee to lobster, oysters to wine, and liquor to full-on gourmet meals prepared by Maine’s best chefs, you’ll want to make sure you at least dip your toes in this one and maybe just dive in head first. Some of the best restaurants in town are participating and I’ll be attending myself. See you there!

Below is a list of the available events. Go to harvestontheharbor.com for more info and to purchase tickets.

Fusion Coffee Lab
Maine Oysterfest
Maine Lobster Chef of the Year
Chef’s Choice Dinners
Different Roads with Maine Winery Guild
Harvest Tasting Luncheon
On the Rocks Happy Hour
Hair of the Dog
Market on the Harbor

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Run to this New Orleans style restaurant right now

In May of this year, Eaux eaux-pened its doors for the first time. Wanting to head someplace new, it seemed like a good option and New Orleans style/cajun food sounded fun to me. We made our way to the eatery on the early side for a Friday dinner. A sign out front said “you’re the chicken to my waffle” on one side and “cozy up with gumbo and an old fashioned (or two)” on the other.

The decor of the restaurant was relatively sparse and the interior slightly dark, but it worked. We were seated at a table by the bar which was in the middle of the room. Old school hip hop was playing and only one other table was taken. The waitress provided menus and water and gave us time to decide on food and drink while she appeard to be setting up for the evening service.

There were several beers, wines, and cocktails on the menu. When our server came back, my wife ordered Domaine De Pouy – a 2017 white from France and I stuck with water. We took a closer look at the food next. The menu was small with a half-dozen each of snacks and dinners with another four food items on a chalkboard nearby.

So few items made our decisions relatively easy. Though I considered the Salad or Escargot to start, we eventually decided to share two other items. She wanted the Fried Butter Beans – honey and chive butter, maldon salt – and I chose the Squash – salt and vinegar almonds, carmelized whey, horseradish, orange supreme. We both decided to get the Chicken and Waffles – cane syrup, fried sage, apples, pickled fresnos.

Our beans didn’t look like much – glistening, hollow, reduced beans with some finishes, including the salt, on top. The squash was a little more impressive with a number of wedges, some orange, a little pool of sauce, and a fair shake of almonds. I tried the beans first looking to determine the value of such a simplistic item. My first bite provided so much crunch that it nearly shook the room. The beans were twice as crunchy as a peanut, but as I quickly took a second bite, I deemed their texture pure perfection.

It wasn’t just the solidity of the bean, but also the mild honey butter that made the duality of the crunch and melty sweetness astoundingly plesant – a perfect starter if there ever was one. The squash held up too with excellent soft, sweet roasted squash quality and a crunch from the almonds similar to the beans, though much less intense. While I preferred the beans, the squash was more than adequate. We had picked two outstanding apps.

I’d had chicken and waffles maybe twice in my life prior to them arriving, but when they did, I was sure it was the best presentation of them. Like a beautiful pile of junkyard cars from the 50’s, the three-ish each of chicken and waffles were piled atop and leaning against one another looking like they were ready to fall over, but never actually doing so. A swirl of syrup lay underneath with apple, fresno, and sage on top of it all. And boy did that chicken look crispy with its dark fry char.

A piece of waffle was my first forkful of the goods. Syrup seemed a little sparse on the dish, but the joke was on me as the cane drizzle was sweet and clearly present throughout. More would have been overpowering. The chicken was brutally (in a really good way) crispy in a typical, well-dispersed spicy southern rub. It had lots of crunch and a nice tender bird inside. A hair of the syrup cut the moderate spice just a bit, creating a stellar, balanced combo.

On top, the apple, fesno pepper, and sage added a little more oomph to the flavors, but in truth, the waffles and chicken had a strength that was satisfying and heartwarming on their own. They were comfort food defined. As I slowly began slipping into a chicken and waffle coma with my last few bites, my wife said she was full and offered me her last piece of chicken and last waffle. I ate most of those.

We were done and I simultaneously regretted everything and nothing, noting that while I would be required to roll out of the restaurant, I had just basked in exquisite flavors and extraordinary dishes. From our hill of beans and seasonal squash, to the bird and baked batter platter, our food took us to New Orleans and back. And it was a wonderful journey.

About $70 with tip, the cost was probably appropriate for what we ordered, but the experience with the food was certainly worth more. The restaurant didn’t get very busy while we were there and I don’t know how busy they’ve been, but Portland, I urge you to get there ASAP. It’s Eaux so good and they play the best music of any restaurant around. The only question for mouth-watering me is that if what I had was so good, will I ever want to try anything else? Only time will tell.

90 Exchange St.
207-835-0283
info@eaux-portland.com

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Visit this eatery for atmosphere and interesting plates

Munjoy Hill’s Lolita is on my semi-regular rotation for dinners. Unfortunately, that rotation doesn’t get me there often because we go to a lot of different restaurants. Their allure is that they have historically provided solid Mediterranean-inspired food, often utilizing their wood-fired grill, and the interior is warm and inviting with a retro-elegant feel and wine and liquor lined walls. Only getting there every year or so, it’s like visiting a new restaurant every time.

We had early reservations, so the restaurant was mostly empty. Mrs. Portlandeater initially ordered a glass of La Fraghe Bardolino Rose and we followed up with food requests. We skipped meats and cheeses, instead starting with three items from the Toasts, Pots, Snacks portion of the menu. We went with Smoked Prosciutto Toast – almonds, garlic, on wood-grilled sourdough; Burrata Toast – lemon confit, aleppo oil; and Almonds – sage, sea salt. We decided to work on those as starters and then determine where to head with the food from there.

The first courses were adorned on a single plate in minimalist fashion. I jumped on the prosciutto. It was folded onto the toast atop a garlic and almond spread. I wouldn’t say it was fancy, but it was a bit of tiny, more inspired charcuterie. It’s flavors were great in that you could clearly taste all of them. The salty eat, crunchy nuts, and properly potent garlic left a smile on my face.

I went for the bowl of almonds as my wife ate the burrata. They were fine almonds, but I didn’t find the sage to be significant and I was really looking forward to it. That left me in a space where I got to enjoy the nuts at face value, but was slightly disappointed they didn’t have that extra herb flavor, save for a couple of bites where I got an actual visible piece of the leaves. I finished them wanting for a little more pizzazz.

For our second courses, we focused on the Small, Medium, and Large sections of the menu. She started with a small plate of the Creamed Corn and Black Trumpet Mushrooms which was actually from the specials board and also selected a small plate of Local Mussels – fennel and ouzo broth, fresh lemon. I chose a medium Torchio – ‘Nduja, peas – and also a cheese – Cobb Hill Golden Aged Smoked Gouda from Hartland, VT with wood-grilled sourdough and honey.

Her items seemed a bit small for the price even though they were small plates. Mine were more appropriately sized, I felt. The torch shaped pasta was well appointed with little bits of the ‘nduja (spicy pork salami) and peas. I’m not sure that peas and salami would have been my first choice to insert into a pasta creation, but the spice coated the pasta and filled my palate with focused, mildly spicy flavor. It had almost peas to make me feel like I was eating an actual vegetable.

My cheese was a significant hunk and came with what seemed like an entire loaf of bread. It was great, and I had an extra couple slices of sourdough, one of which I used to try the broth from my wife’s mussels. Even though I’m not a huge fan of ouzo or fennel, I found it pleasant, maybe because I was focused on the light citrus or maybe because the totality of ingredients in the broth took it up a level.

We finished our food, mine talking longer than hers, and got out for $70 pre-tip. Both of us found our meals pleasurable, though she left a bit hungry. Two small plates and a toast wasn’t quite enough. That’s the thing about Lolita – the food is consistently well-prepared, but if you don’t order the medium or large plates, you are likely to need at least a few, so order a bunch and be adventurous.

Lolita works for me as a place to go when I can’t make a decision about what I want to eat or just when I’m feeling Munjoy Hill is the right area to grab some food. They never disappoint and always have an interesting variety of items like Blistered Shishito Peppers, Heirloom Tomato Casserole, and Grilled Half Game Hen. If you haven’t been yet, I suggest you make a visit there, because I’m sure you’ll be happy you did.

90 Congress St.
207-775-5652
info@lolita-portland.com

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Stunning views abound at this Harpswell restaurant

It’s not exactly convenient to go to Harpswell for a meal, but my wife had been years without going to The Dolphin, which is both a marina and restaurant. I’d never been, but she assured me it was worth the visit, boasting of its views, food, and an overall atmosphere that could be thoroughly enjoyed on a nice day such as it was.

Our trip there wasn’t quick, but when we arrived, I could quickly see the allure. Set directly on the water, overlooking ocean, boats, and islands in the distaance, I couldn’t imagine much better scenery. From the inside, once in the main dining area, there was a panoramic view of the sea, as the large windows spead the entire length of the restaurant at the water. We chose to sit outside which provided us with a slightly different, but equally amazing, sight.

Since I was on vacation and the weather was gorgeous, I was primed for a cocktail. I kept it simple, strong, and summery with a Pain Killer – Light and Dark Cruzan Rum, OJ, pineapple, Coco Lopez, Pussers rum float, a sprinkle of nutmeg. She went with just a seltzer and lime. We also threw in an app of Calamari – lightly fried, cilantro sweet chili sauce – to get us started.

My drink was delicious – pretty much what I expected, though the nutmeg was a nice addition. It was indeed strong, as pain killers are. Sipping the drink and soaking in the beautiful scenery produced a serenity rarely found in real life. I couldn’t get enough of it, and even though I was hungry, it didn’t matter much because I was so content. Still, I was happy when the rectangular plate of calimari arrived and we put in our requests for main courses.

The crisp squid was quite tasty and I loved the chili sauce which was pretty typical except for that relatively unusual hint of cilantro mixed into it. I thought the sauce as a whole worked well to flavor bites of delicious decapod. It was a good enough dish that my wife kept coming back for more long after she had said she was done. “You eat the rest” she would say, immediately followed by “just one more bite” as her fork made its way toward the plate.

I had ordered the Blackened Haddock Sandwich – lettuce, tomato, cucumber dill sauce – and a side of Homemade Mac n’ Cheese. She went with the Haddock Sandwich special – lightly breaded, deep fried, melted cheese, sourdough. She held the bacon that came on hers. Both sandwiches were served with house made potato chips and a pickle. I noticed the pieces of fish on each plate right away. Hers was thicker and fit well on the bread. Mine was thinner and hung over the bun.

This certainly wasn’t my first blackened haddock sandwich, but it looked like a fine example of one. The cucumber dill sauce came on the side, taking the place of ranch, which I am more used to seeing with blackened items. The sauce – in this case, cucumber dill – cools the heat of the cajun seasoning a bit and also adds some extra flavor. I put most of it on top of my fish.

A single bite of the haddock on its own was good, but a second full bite of the sandwich was excellent. This wasn’t rocket science. There was a tasty toasted bun, really fresh and heavily seasoned fish, fresh lettuce and tomato, and a great sauce. It was perfectly done and mostly status quo, but that’s exactly what made it great. She had the same reaction to her sandwich. The mac was outstanding with lots of creamy cheese, though much of it was in the bottom of my bowl.

One part of the meal I thought was a really great addition were the house chips. Those are almost always much better than store bought and they indeed were this time too. The thick, crispy slices were pure joy with a satisfying “crrrrunnncchhhh” in every bite. They even went quite well with the little bit of cucumber dill I had left over from the sandwich.

We finished and were relatively full. None of the desserts piqued our interest enough to order one. The final tab came to about $60 before tip. The Dolphin doesn’t get too crazy with their food or drinks, they just make them like they’re supposed to be made and it’s all quite good. But that alone might not be worth the trip from Portland. What is worth it though are the glorious views which take the meal from really good to spectacular and with prices you’d expect around Portland. Want a picturesque meal that will give you the happys? Check them out.

515 Basin Point Rd., Harpswell
207-833-6000
info@dolphinmarinaandrestaurant.com

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Feel free to email me at peterpeterportlandeater@yahoo.com with any thoughts, suggestions, criticisms, or otherwise helpful info or post your thoughts below. Also, like the Peterpeterportlandeater page on Facebook and follow @portlandeater on Twitter and peterpeterportlandeater on Instagram. You can also find over 50 articles archived at pppe.bangordailynews.com.